Category Archives: Australia

2010 Bird Year List

Ongoing bird list for the year 2010. This is my first official year list! Pictures to follow soon. Only new year (and life) birds are listed as the months roll on. Exceptions to this rule are special birding excursions, where all species seen are listed – these are demarcated in a bullet list. Life birds marked with **…except those for the first half of the year (through to June, when I returned to the US) because those were all life birds!

January: (NZ and Antarctica)

New Zealand gull
Little penguin
Pied shag
South polar skua
Adelie penguin
Emperor penguin
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Mackay and Eungella National Park

Upon awakening bright and early in our jail cell in Bundaberg, we had a bit of a false alarm. I awoke with a start, thinking that it was my allotted time back in NC to sign up for summer classes (super important because they are the last two I need to graduate in August). My time was 5 pm to sign up, and so I needed to be on the internet at 7 am sharp, so I could make sure I got into these necessary classes. Ethan and I drove around Bundaberg looking for an internet cafe where I could sign up, but nothing was open yet. Last resort: I used Ethan’s international roaming to call my brother to talk him through the whole complicated process for me. We finally got to the sign up page, and it blocks him, saying that my time is the next day. Boy, did I feel like a fool. My fogged-over morning brain had gotten the best of me. By this time it was 8 am, so we went to go get some breakfast, and then back to the hostel to pack up and go.

We had a long day of driving ahead of us – we were determined to get to Mackay that night, and that was a 625 km (390 mile) drive from Bundie. So we bailed out (hah!) of the hostel and headed north.
I have to give props to Ethan for being such an excellent driver – he drove pretty much the entire time while I tried to motivate myself to work on my Marine Plants and Algae dinoflagellate paper. There wasn’t much along the way that we hadn’t already seen before – we were travelling along the A1 again. One thing that was interesting was that we drove through Rockhampton, the self-proclaimed “beef capital of Australia”, but also where very recently (like the day before) a Chinese tanker had wrecked itself onto the Great Barrier Reef. Well, obviously not precisely where, but the closest mainland point. We had just found out about it and we happened to be so close to it.

About 10 hours later, we finally arrived in Mackay. I had called and booked a room at the Gecko’s Rest, Lonely Planet’s choice for Mackay. We checked in about 7:30 pm, and went up to our room. The hostel was a little hard to find, but is pretty sweet. It was colorful (think rainforest murals), clean, and very comfortable. For dinner, we walked to Sorbello’s Italian restaurant, the place we had eaten at in Mackay on the way down. We ordered some tasty pasta dishes and a salad for take-away, and scarfed it down back in our room. The plan for the next day was to get up super early and head west to Eungella National Park. The earlier, the better, because the best chances at spotting the park’s platypuses is at dawn and dusk. Fun fact!:

There is no universally agreed plural of “platypus” in the English language. Scientists generally use “platypuses” or simply “platypus”. Colloquially the term “platypi” is also used for the plural, although this is technically incorrect and a form of pseudo-Latin; the correct Greek plural would be “platypodes” or “platypoda”.

Unfortunately, we ended up leaving much later than planned due to some unforeseen circumstances……..but it was all swell in the end. We left Mackay behind and headed for some beautiful nature. Eungella (which means “land where cloud lies over mountains”) is particularly special because it is Australia’s longest continual stretch of subtropical rainforest. It’s also been isolated for a long time from other rainforests, and as a result has produced some interesting species such as the Eungella gastric-brooding frog (Rheobatrachus vitellinus). Sadly, this species went extinct around 1990 for unknown reasons. But these frogs were absolutely fascinating, from a reproductive point of view! As the name implies, after her eggs were externally fertilized by a male frog, the female swallowed the eggs, where they brooded in her stomach. She didn’t eat during this time, and the eggs (and subsequent tadpoles) were covered in a protective substance that turned off hydrochloric acid production in the stomach. After they hatched and fully developed (the eggs had a larger-than-normal yolk supply) the female effectively regurgitated her young. Maybe they’re still around, somewhere, hiding in the park….Also exclusively endemic to Eungella NP is the Eungella honeyeater, Mackay tulip oak, and orange-sided skink. That is quite amazing for one park!

Eungella is about an hour’s drive west of Mackay. We drove through lots more sugarcane farms, and the road slowly got smaller and rougher. Eventually, it turned to hard-packed sand. What we weren’t forewarned about was that we would have to cross several creeks to get to the park. In our precious little rental car? We took the risk. A couple of them were rather intimidating, shin-deep, rapidly-flowing streams. For these, I got out to see if it was relatively doable, and then cringed as I watched Ethan make the crossing, imagining the car getting swept off the concrete crossing and onto the boulders below. Lucky for us, our little car made it across all the streams and creeks, safely to the parking area. There were a few cars already there, all big 4WD trucks. But then, as we turned in to park, hidden behind a truck, we saw a tiny two-door Mazda which had somehow made it as well…those crazy Aussies!

Immediately, from the parking lot, we were treated to a pleasant visit by a kookaburra – I love these birds! And there was also a pied currawong, a member of the corvid (crow and raven) family. These guys look fierce, with their serious black plumage, stout bill, and hypnotic yellow eyes…

laughing kookaburra - iconic bird of Australia

pied currawong

We planned to hike to Araluen waterfall (unfortunately the Wheel of Fire waterfall trail was closed due to washout) andswim in the pool below. As we stepped into the lush rainforest, I took a deep breath – I absolutely love rainforest, it feels like home to me – there is something immensely comforting about the lush greenery, towering trees, and hot, humid air. We stopped several times along the way as I tried to ID as many birds as possible.

birdwatching in Eungella rainforest

We eventually reached the waterfall, only to realize how perfect it would be for Ethan’s underwater camera. Soooo we decide to go back and get it. It was only 2.2 km one way, and if we speed-walked (no stops for birds! :() we’d be back soon….so we hiked back to the car and got the camera. I also grabbed the last Zywiec (delicious Polish beer) that we had. One the way back, we spotted a large lace monitor hanging out in a tree, sweet as! I love monitor lizards. They look so much like little dragons.

this was as close as I could get without spooking him

So once again we hiked back up to the waterfall. Since it was getting a little later in the day, more people were arriving. Too bad the Wheel of Fire was closed (it was a further hike and would have filtered a lot of people out). We found our own little boulder and stripped down to our bath suits. The water was COLD!!!!! I decided to down the beer before I attempted getting in. It helped a little. I felt like such a wimp, there were children (albeit chubby, so better insulated) that were happily swimming around. I managed to get in halfway, I just couldn’t overcome my body’s extreme resistance to being submerged in the frigid water.

active members of the five fingers clan

We moved to the main pool, which the waterfall spilled into. There was a big rock from which some guys were jumping off…and there was a girl that was cringing on the edge of it, ignoring the coaxing of her boyfriend. We watched for a couple of minutes as she stood up and then sat back down. I told Ethan that if she jumps in, then so will I. It was a bold statement that I, of course regretted because about 10 minutes later she jumped, kicking and screaming. So I had to keep my promise….and with a sense of impending doom, I climbed up the rock with Ethan at my side. And once you make a climb like that, you cannot go back down. There was only one way down, and that was jumping off. I was really afraid of jumping off height into water, because one time I had done this when I was younger, and seriously hurt myself on a submerged rock. Ethan jumped off with no hesitation, leaving me at the edge, feeling just like the girl before me had. And she was watching me now. I hesitated a few minutes…but knowing that putting it off only made it worse, I took a deep breath, stood up, and jumped in. A millisecond later I plunged into the freezing, deep water.

proof

The current from the waterfall was so strong, pushing us away. It was so cold! But jumping in was the best way to get in. That way, the adrenalin took away the cold pain a little bit. But within a minute my teeth were chattering, so we swam to the edge of a rock and wrapped ourselves in the big beach towel.

waterfall!!

Part of me wanted to jump it again, just to reinforce some sort of sense of accomplishment….but I couldn’t be bothered. Time had passed quickly, and it was in the afternoon already! We didn’t want to get to Townsville too late, so we had to start heading back. We hiked back to the car, crossed the creeks (with confidence, this time), and stopped at a little hide-away for some quick food. Then it was back on the road, for good, all the way back to Townsville. I was disturbed at the thought of this, as that meant that our adventure was coming to an end, and in a couple of days I would be saying goodbye to my sweetheart for another 2.5 months. I felt this strong aversion to return to Townsville, return to school, have to say goodbye, and all I wanted was just to keep driving, past Townsville, to keep exploring, never stopping until we had gone all around the entire coast of Australia. But we had to save that for another time. Of course, reality meant that Ethan had to go back to work, and I back to school.

We never got to see any platypuses in Eungella…..but we had earned so many wonderful memories and experiences along the way there. Ethan’s visit couldn’t have been more perfect.

Crikey! Australia Zoo

The next morning we were in for a long day, so we woke up early to get packed up, check out,  grab some breakfast, and get to the Australia Zoo right right when it opened, around 9 am. It was only about a 20 minute drive from Mooloolaba, but by the time we got there the parking lot was already quite crowded! But we found a spot and paid the $57 (per person!) entrance fee. I always have conflicting feelings about zoos. They are, of course, all very different, with different policies and missions. I don’t like that most zoos are geared towards children – can’t animals – zoology – be an adult interest, as well?? haha, anyways, Australia Zoo has a strong conservation message, which is great, and donates a substantial portion of money towards conservation projects. It seems to be doing a good job carrying on the dreams of Steve Irwin, as now his wife runs the zoo, and their children play an important part in it as well.

We grabbed a map of the zoo and saw that at 11:00 they were doing the croc show – which of course, we couldn’t miss! So we got to the “Crocoseum” and grabbed some seats in the blazing sun and waited. We were early, so we were subjected to an interesting sight – Bindi Irwin performing an animated song & dance routine with her “Jungle Girls” on stage for a mass of children below. After a little bit of waiting, out came Terri Irwin, Steve’s widow, to begin the croc show…but unfortunately there was some commercial things before the show could start – first, I guess this just happened to be on the day we were there, but Terri spent a good 20 minutes talking about a child recovery bracelet plan for Queensland, having the police chief and a representative from the company there and saying how she uses it for her children for a slew of news reporters. It was so random. Anyways, after that, those people left, and Bindi came out to join her mom, and then it was time to introduce Bindi in her first feature film – Free Willy 4 or 5 or something. They played the trailer for it on the big screen. After all that was out of the way, the croc show finally started!

Bindi and Terri Irwin!

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Fraser Island, Part 3: Last Two Days on the Island

Having spent a relaxing night with another delicious, enjoyable camp dinner (no kidding, I miss cooking so much even camp cooking made me happy!!!), and a surprisingly dingo-less night, we woke up early in the morning for a quick breakfast and to pack up camp.

brekky

Our plan was to continue driving up 75 Mile Beach, to explore the northern end of the island. The farthest north that Aussie Trax said we could drive was no further than Orchid Beach. So that was our limit, and there was plenty to do and see around the area. Everything north of Indian Head was considered to be somewhat trickier driving than normal, with lots of deep, soft sand traps. So I let Ethan take over :). We once again had to obey the tides, and be off the beach two hours before and after high tide, which worked out perfectly with our plans.

Our first stop, once we drove around/behind and past Indian Head, was Champagne Pools. This is the only place on Fraser Island where it is safe to swim in the “ocean” – its not actually the open ocean, but rocky outcroppings which enclose these wonderfully perfect swimming holes. It was quite nice, and amazing the watch these huge, rolling waves coming our way, only to be broken up into spray once it reached the pools. I guess the only concern remaining was marine stingers like box or irukandji jellyfish – but we took our chances anyways, along with plenty of other people. Seems we were the only people lucky enough to have such perfectly suited footwear as Five Fingers, though…:)

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Fraser Island, Part 2: Our First Two Days on the Island

Having arrived in Hervey Bay the previous night, the main setting-off point for Fraser Island adventures, Ethan and I woke up at 5 am on April 1st to begin our long-awaited adventure. Our first stop was Aussie Trax – the rental company from whom we were renting our 4WD vehicle (as you cannot drive on Fraser without one). We had to be there at 6 am to watch a safety video covering the tricks and hazards of driving on the island and on the beaches (mainly because of the tides). Afterwards, they brought our car around – a little 2 passenger Suzuki Jimny which had obviously seen better days. The back was loaded up with our camping equipment – tent, mattresses, stove, propane, and an eskie (Aussie slang for a cooler). The night before we had gone grocery shopping for supplies, which we transferred to the eskie. We moved the rest of our bags and left everything we didn’t need in our other rental car, which was to be locked up safely in a garage by Aussie Trax. We were supposed to leave on the second ferry of the morning, leaving at 8:00 am, but we took a little longer than we though moving things around, and so we moved it to the (next) 9:30 am one. We still had to drive about 25 minutes to the actual ferry landing at Rivers Head, and we just barely made it onto the ferry, literally at the last minute (this being due to the fact that we still had to pay for our camping permits, which I thought were included in our Aussie Trax package). But we made it!

Fraser Island

The ferry ride over took 45 minutes, and we docked in Kingfisher Bay, one of the main resort areas with a restaurant, souvenir shop, spa, cafe, and hotel, and it even had paved roads. We immediately left the area, needless to say. As we left Kingfisher Bay Resort, the road turned to deep sand (and me, who had never been 4WD’ing before, was somewhat apprehensive) and then we were in the rainforest that blankets the interior of the island. It was so beautiful, with huge satinay gums, kauri pines, and piccabeen palms.

driving through the inland rainforest

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Fraser Island Adventure, Part I: Road Trip to Hervey Bay

After our amazing time on Magnetic Island, Ethan and I were looking forward to the big trip – a wonderful week-long excursion of driving down the coast from Townsville to Hervey Bay, from where we would be going on our Fraser Island excursion. We previously arranged for a 3 day, 2 night camping/4wd adventure. There are many different ways to do this – most backpackers do it in large groups of 8 or more (its cheaper that way but you are stuck with people you don’t know and you might not get along or agree on places to visit), or a packaged group tour where you have a strict itenirary and in an even larger group. So we decided to do our own thing and rent a little, tiny 2 person 4wd from Aussie Trax, along with camping gear. They weren’t our first choice, but because we had waited a little late to book (during Easter break weekend), they were pretty much the only place that had vehicles left.

that coastal road from Townsville to Hervey Bay - A1/Bruce Highway - Road Triiip!

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Magnetic Island

Ethan had arrived in Australia the morning before, and I was so, so excited! We had lots of wonderful, planned things to do…We spent that first day exploring downtown Townsville (not much to it, especially right now with their huge renovation efforts of Flinders Street)…but Friday March 26th was the highly-anticipated Full Moon Party on Magnetic Island.

After class on Friday (the dreaded Marine Plants lab), Ethan and I quickly packed up for our weekend on Magnetic Island. I was a bit stressed, because it was the night of the Full Moon Party, and we were the last of my group of friends to leave Townsville…and getting to Maggie was going to take a while with the wonderful public transport system of Townsville. But we finally got the time tables figured out and took the bus downtown around 7, bought some snacks for the night, and walked a few kilometers to the ferry terminal. From there we waited for an hour for the ferry to arrive. Once loaded onto the ferry, it was a speedy, bumpy ride on the large catamaran transporting a full load of already-intoxicated Full Moon party-goers. It took 20 minutes to get to Maggie Island, and from there, a 20 bus ride to X Base Backpackers, who were the hosts of the party, and nicely located right on the beach. We were the last to arrive (at 10 pm) from my group of friends staying together in one dorm – Kim, Jon, Brenna, Steph, Kayla, Elissa, and Charli were already there. We managed to sneak in a bottle of Feijoa-flavored vodka (delicious!) that Ethan had bought from duty-free in Sydney, and then it was time to catch up with the rest of the drunken crowd! Later that night, after some dancing, we all watched a bit of a fire-show and then got inspired to run out onto the beach and splash around in the warm ocean while the party raged on.

full moon in the ocean

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